Warren Fish & Seafood - Neighborhood Go-To for Fish Lovers
Fish seldom made it to our family’s dinner table when I was growing up in landlocked Indiana, unless you can count tuna noodle casserole or the occasional fish sticks.
What a treat it was, then, to move to Detroit in my early 20’s and discover that Detroiters love fish - and know how to cook it to perfection. My first fried catfish dinner was a revelation.
When my husband, who’s not a fan of fish, went out of town recently, I took the opportunity to indulge my own fish fetish while patronizing a neighborhood business - Warren Fish & Seafood at the corner of Warren and Alter.
My first trip there was for the fried catfish dinner (of course), and it didn’t disappoint. The cornmeal crust was crisp, and the fish firm, juicy, and piping hot. Although it was advertised as a 3-piece dinner, I counted six - enough for a second dinner. Unlike so many fish that are indescribably bland — I’m looking at you, cod — catfish has a unique flavor that demands to be more than just a vehicle for tartar sauce and lemon.
Dinner came with a small side of coleslaw, creamy with just a hint of sweet tanginess, as well as a generous helping of french fries - which were about what you’d expect from frozen fries. It was topped off with the usual two slices of bread, which are unnecessary in my opinion but a nice gesture. I also ordered a small and unimpressive side of mac and cheese - nothing like the crusty, eggy, cheesy dish I’ve come to expect from Detroit cooks. The desserts, which of course I needed to sample, are brought in from Silver Fox Pastries. The caramel cake I chose was dense and moist, with a tasty, though modest, amount of frosting.
My next visit was for crab cakes, ordered a la carte. Again, the crust was crisp and the crab meat hot and flavorful. I skipped the fries in favor of coleslaw and potato salad. The potato chunks were tender but firm enough to stand up to the mayo, and well seasoned with just a hint of mustard. Instead of coleslaw I ended up with macaroni salad by mistake. Dishes with macaroni aren’t their strong suit - that’s all I’ll say. But the dessert - coconut cake - more than made up for that minor disappointment.
In addition to prepared fish, Warren Fish & Seafood sells a wide variety of fresh uncooked fish, many still staring at customers from their beds of ice. On my third trip, I picked up salmon fillet to grill at home, which was as good as the salmon I’ve had from many stores in Grosse Pointe and Detroit. And yes, there was dessert, this time creamy cheesecake on a cookie crumb crust, drizzled with chocolate and caramel and sprinkled with chopped walnuts. It tasted as good as it sounds.
But wait, there’s more! Warren Fish & Seafood has a sideline in fried chicken, as well as a large freezer case filled with fish and seafood and even chicken pot pie - but no fish sticks. You’ll also find all the other ingredients you’ll need to prepare your own fish at home, as well as a case of non-alcoholic drinks to wash it down.
Hours are Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; and Sunday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. You can call ahead to order prepared food at (313) 642-4731.
